1295 Grandview Ave.
Columbus, OH 43212
websiteChef Hubert Seifert came to Columbus about 30 years ago with the idea to launch a restaurant that would add some depth to the Grandview Heights suburb, what was at the time a kind of quiet bedpost community. Today that neighborhood is booming, driven by an influx of young people as Columbus continues to grow. In that time, the chef has evolved too, turning the space from a cozy deli to a cool and more modern Italian restaurant and wine bar popular for its standing area that encourages socializing and its expansive patio. The result is unique and oh so interesting.
The menu is broad but the food isn’t thoughtless, and in fact it’s a really smart one. Some of the things I liked:
- Ohio Gerber’s Farm Oven-Roasted Half Chicken: This is a Sunday-only specialty, and features chicken seasoned with lemon and rosemary so it’s fall-off-the-bone soft and comfortable. The chicken is juicy and the seasoning gives it a delicate extra flavor. Plus, served with red skin smashed potatoes & seasonal vegetable medley. Worth a weekend trip.
- BBQ Chicken Wood-Fired Pizza: Wood-fired pizzas have this wonderful and unique texture, with a very crispy and yet not dry crust served with a comforting set of toppings in a ratio that isn’t overwhelming or does a disservice to any individual thing. In this case, the flatbread has a nice and very comfortable layer of bacon, mozzarella, scallions and red onions.
- Panko-Crusted Wild Norwegian Salmon: The magic in the seafood is its delicacy, and it takes a seriously deft hand to take a good cut of fish like salmon and make it work in a minimalist dressing up. This salmon is cooked excellently. And served with some light veggies, which is a nice plus.
- Mama Seifert’s Meatloaf: Veal, beef and pork meat come together for this soft, fall-apart meatloaf with a sweet glaze on top, served with red skin smashed potatoes and veggies.
The restaurant is a wonderful and very cozy atmosphere. The interior is at its front a bit eclectic, and maybe a little more traditional in the back. But the contemporary feel has evolved with the times, and there’s a separate area for mingling that tends to be popular with groups hosting networking events. And in the summer, that giant patio is very appealing, as you watch people wanter up and down Grandview Avenue, the growing number of shops and bars in this area making it ever more alluring.
Prices are high, and that’s something to know in advance. At these prices the restaurant might seem like it’s best reserved for formal occasions, but it’s actually very comfortable for other settings. Date night might be a good chance to try it. Lunch might be better if you want to try the quality use of the ingredients without the prices. But this restaurant engenders a lot of local love for good reason.
- Some dishes are available only at certain times of the week.
- To counterat the high prices, consider some of the dishes can be tried in a stripped-down lunch menu with smaller portions.
- Reservations recommended.